The Coronation Gown
Norman Hartnell (1901-1979) was given the Royal Warrant as Dressmaker to Queen Elizabeth II in 1957, however he had been working with the royal family since 1940. He created some of the young Queen’s most famous dresses and was renowned for his elaborate embroidery and beadwork.
The Coronation
The coronation took place on 2 June 1953 and was watched by an estimated 27 million people in the United Kingdom which was impressive considering many Britons still didn’t own a television set.
The coronation was also the first live event in Britain to be broadcast to European countries, including France, Belgium, West Germany, Denmark and the Netherlands. Recordings were then sent directly to Canada and the United States so audiences could watch the event on the same day. Similarly, a recording was flown to Australia but the longer distance meant it was broadcast two days later.
The Coronation Gown
Since the event was to be seen by a global audience, the coronation gown had to be spectacular and the design was entrusted to Norman Hartnell who had also made Elizabeth’s wedding dress.
The gown, featuring the same silhouette as Elizabeth’s wedding dress, was made from silk produced at Lady Hart Dyke’s silk farm at Lullingstone Castle, Kent, and was woven by Warner & Sons in Essex. The embroidered motifs were arranged in three scalloped tiers bordered with alternating lines with thousands of gold bugle beads, diamantés and pearls.
Embroidery Detail
The gown was embroidered with the four national symbols: the English Tudor rose, Scots thistle, Welsh leek and Irish shamrock.
The Queen also requested the addition of symbols from the Commonwealth nations, including the Canadian maple leaf, Australian wattle, New Zealand silver fern, South African protea, Indian lotus flower for India, the Lotus flower of Ceylon, and Pakistan’s wheat, cotton, and jute.
Anointing Dress
Norman Hartnell also made this simple white dress which would be worn over the coronation gown during the sacred anointing part of the ceremony.
The Colobium sindonis is a simple tunic which is placed over the coronation garments to symbolise the monarch divesting themselves of their worldly goods before God.
The anointing part of the ceremony was carried out in private beneath a canopy.
Supertunica & Imperial Mantle
The Queen was then invested with the Supertunica, a full-length, sleeved gold coat, which is based on priestly and religious vestments. The Supertunica worn by the Queen was made for George V and features an embroidered band with spiral threads.
The Imperial Mantle, made for George IV in 1821, is then placed over the Supertunica. The mantle is made of gold cloth and embroidered with roses, thistles, shamrocks, crowns, eagles and fleurs-de-lis.
The coronation garments are removed before exiting Westminster Abbey.
Robe of Estate
The Robe of Estate was worn as the Queen was leaving Westminster Abbey and during the procession back to Buckingham Palace.
Made by Ede & Ravenscroft, the Robe of Estate is made of a deep purple silk velvet edged with ermine and embroidered in gold thread with a crowned ERII monogram. The gold embroidery depicts the national symbols of the United Kingdom with others from the Commonwealth.
Maid of Honour Dresses
The Queen was supported by six maids of honour who wore silk dresses with a motif of gold leaf and pearl white blossom which were also designed by Hartnell. The maids of honour were:
Coronation Necklace
Elizabeth also wore the Coronation Necklace and Earrings which were originally commissioned by Queen Victoria and then worn by Queen Alexandra, Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth respectively.
The 22.48 carat diamond pendant on the necklace is known as the Lahore Diamond and was presented to Queen Victoria in 1851. The earrings are a pair of cushion-cut diamond collet studs with a pair of round brilliants and two large pear-shaped pendants.
St. Edwards Crown
St. Edwards Crown was made for Charles II’s coronation in 1661 as the previous regalia has been destroyed during the Civil War.
It was made to resemble the original medieval crown, with four crosses-pattée and four fleurs-de-lis, and two arches. It has a solid gold frame set with rubies, amethysts, sapphires, garnet, topazes and tourmalines. The crown has a velvet cap with an ermine band.
It weighs 2.07 kg (nearly 5lb) and it only used in coronation ceremonies after which it is returned to the Tower.
Imperial State Crown
The Imperial State Crown was made for George VI’s coronation in 1937 and is set with 2,868 diamonds, 17 sapphires, 11 emeralds and 269 pearls.
The crown is also set with historic stones such as the St Edward’s Sapphire, the Stuart Sapphire, the Cullinan II diamond and the Black Prince’s Ruby.
It is lighter than the St. Edwards Crown and is worn when the sovereign exists Westminster Abbey.
Diamond Diadem
The Diamond Diadem was commissioned from Rundell Bridge & Rundell by George IV for his coronation and it was worn by Queen Elizabeth to her ceremony.
The open framework diadem is set with 1,333 diamonds, including a four-carat pale yellow brilliant in the centre of the front cross. The narrow band is edged with pearls and is surmounted by four crosses-pattée and four sprays representing the national emblems of England, Ireland and Scotland.
Over the years, the Queen has worn the diadem for state visits, parliament openings and it has become a familiar sight on banknotes and postage stamps.
