The Greedy Queen: Eating with Victoria
ANNIE GRAY
From her early years living on milk and bread under the Kensington system, to her constant indigestion and belligerent over-eating as an elderly woman, her diet will be examined, likes and dislikes charted, and the opinions of those around her considered. More than that, though, this book will take a proper look below stairs. Victoria was surrounded by servants, from ladies-in-waiting, to secretaries, dressers and coachmen. But there was another category of servant, more fundamental, and yet at the same time more completely hidden: her cooks.
From her greed to her selfishness at the table, her indigestion and her absolute reliance on food as a lifelong companion, with her when so many others either died or were forced away by political factors, Victoria had a huge impact on the way we all eat today. Annie Gray gives us a new perspective on Britain’s longest reigning monarch, viewing her through the one thing more dear to her than almost anything else: her stomach.
REVIEW
The Greedy Queen is a rather unflattering examination of Queen Victoria’s eating habits but its claim to offer a new biographical perspective is rather a stretch.
It’s no secret Queen Victoria gobbled her food and since royal etiquette demanded her dinner companions ate at her pace, it’s no wonder many a guest left her table with pangs of hunger. What this book offers is a journey through the Queen’s relationship with food and the detrimental effect it had on her health as she aged. Queen Victoria was a very emotional person so she was a comfort eater and her overindulgence led to serious weight gain. However, the book is very repetitive and there are only so many times you can read about a setting being a la francaise or a la russe before you want to scream.
Gray argues Victoria should be praised for her enjoyment of food and the criticism of her bad table manners and lack of stimulating conversation were purely misogynistic. There is obviously some truth to that, however it also does not disguise the reality that the Queen had a real problem with food and most likely had a serious eating disorder. There are detailed reports from royal doctors over the Queen’s various digestive issues
The more interesting parts of the book are when the author examines the eating habits of Victorian society in general and the options available for those of differing classes. Some of the more popular choices on the menu would make a more modern palate cringe and the food preparation is often complex. There are recipes included if you care to have a go yourself, although some of the ingredients may be hard to source if you want to be authentic. Food historians will probably love this book but it wasn’t for me.